Modena to Pullman Fontana Stuttgart

Making our way gingerly to the gate

It took us nearly an hour to leave our house that Saturday morning. It was freezing cold, we had snow nearly to our knees and this all happened overnight. Hub sent the Teenager to remove the snow from the gate with our only spade. And it was quite an expedition driving that few hundred metres to the gate and getting out onto the road - we could have gotten stuck anytime along the way. Thank God it was Hub driving.

Snow in the garden

The road just outside the house

Our street was dead that morning. All the cars were crawling as the roads were very slippery. It took us nearly 8 hours to reach Metzingen (instead of 6) meaning that we only had 1.5 hours to do damage to the wallet. But Hub and I managed to grab a coat each from Burberry plus a few other items from Hugo Boss and Escada. Some of you know that I have been hoping to buy a trenchcoat from Burberry - but never managed to find one that I like. Finally I bought an A-line Sarcliffe coat (one of the rare made-in-England's) admitting at last that what looked good on others may not look good at all on me. Problem is that I still have 2 anti-theft tags on my coat - the alarm went off as we left the shop, but the security guards checked our pockets and waved us off. Now I look like an idiot with 2 big plastic tags on my coat. Will have to drive to the Burberry store in Bologna to have them removed.

Pullman Fontana Stuttgart-Vaihingen****

We had dinner late at Ganesha's (it's still one of the better Indian restaurants outside the UK, actually it's Sri Lankan) and checked into our hotel the Pullman Fontana Stuttgart-Vaihingen. The hotel is part of the Accor group, but I think that it's better than most of the other 4-star hotels in the chain. We booked 2 connecting rooms and they came with breakfast and access to the pool/gym/spa. Typical German-style, there were 2 single duvets on the double bed - which probably explains the low German fertility rate. But it was super comfortable, inciting Hub to say that we should buy a bed like that too. The pool was quite lovely (with access to natural light) and the breakfast was good, with attention paid to detail and quality. The U/S Bahn is at the foot of the hotel so access to the city centre is easy. We had lunch at the hotel on our way out on Monday and it was very good too. I would recommend the hotel.

The Pool - the View - the Breakfast

Our 2 days in Germany were spent visiting Hub's ex-colleagues (all Francophones). We could have stayed with the both of them, but I hate to impose so we didn't. But maybe we should the next time as the kids had a great time playing with theirs and it was difficult each time to say goodbye. Goran S lives in Reutlingen and is married to a Chinese girl from Madagascar. I do not know if this is a coincidence, but quite a number of Hub's overseas working connections are French married to an Asian. Anyway, the men talked business and strategised. We will return to this day in a year or 2. Watch this space.

Udo S was not there unfortunately, but his Mexican wife Maria cooked us lunch in their house in Plieningen and introduced us to her illustrous neighbour Prof. Dr. Hans-Peter Burghof who teaches Banking at the Hohenheim University and who appears on German TV quite often as I was told. Interesting guy who speaks French and English fluently too. I adore Maria, we saw each other often in the past as our kids went to the same school. Maria is always happy and happening. A scrapbooking artist, she has the most amazing collection and works from an atelier in her attic. She also works at the French school's garderie and teaches French at the French Institute in Stuttgart. We have missed Udo though, he's German but is more French than German. You always have a good laugh with Udo.

Needless to say, we didn't get to visit Stuttgart or its famous Weihnachtsmarkt. Nor our many other friends. We really will have to return to Stuttgart again.

Hohenloher Freilandmuseum and Schwäbisch Hall

I woke up on Saturday morning with a desire to drive a certain distance away from Stuttgart. So I took out my map of Germany and after a moment of reflection, found the places to go to : Schwäbisch Hall and the Hohenloher Freilandmuseum (Open Air Museum) at Wackershofen.

I usually have impulses like that when Hubby is away and I esteem that he should be around to spend time with me and the kids instead. On another occasion a few years ago, I bought air tickets to Crete for myself and our then 2 children when I discovered that he would be away on business during the children's school break. Though once I was there, I wasn't really in the mood to holiday, what I really wanted was for him to be with us.

So I prepared the children hastily, packed a few snacks and drinks and ushered everybody into the car. The good thing about having a GPS is that one doesn't usually get lost.

The Hohenloher Freilandmuseum is 1h25 mins from Stuttgart. Traffic conditions were good on that day and we were even able to lunch as I hoped, in a Chinese restaurant along the way. Cheap buffet with the usual fried stuff that the Germans threw themselves on, but I didn't feel like eating sausages so it would have to do.

Käsemarkt in the Freilandmuseum

It was a lovely day, sunny yet not too warm. I found the museum easily. The parking was full, but I was able to park my car easily and it was for free too. There was a Cheese Market on the museum grounds that day and so we even obtained discounts on the entrance fees! 1 adult and 3 kids for 5 Euros.

Sow and her Piglets (award-winning pork)

We started out with the pig sty. When you eat those animals in bits and pieces, you fail to realise how big (and smelly) they actually are. Though the piglets were like the roast suckling pigs I've always seen (and eaten, ahem). The kids loved it, of course. And seemed quite oblivious to the smell. I had to snatch Baby Boy once when he went too near to one of the sties, he could easily have lost a hand to one of those beasts' big, sharp teeth. Two to a pen, lots of food and they still had to fight each other as they ate. What a pig.

There were houses and barns scattered here and there on the grounds and each one was different. What I didn't know before though was that they were real houses taken from somewhere else (some relocated intact electrical wiring and all, others were rebuilt according to how there were before the relocation) and transplanted into the museum. They could tell you who built the house, who lived in it, what each possessed at a certain time etc. And it was interesting going through the different rooms, looking at the furniture (mostly not from the same era though), checking out the toilet etc. Really well done.

The photos I took were mainly from the first house we visited and it was a relatively well-endowed one. Some of the others were much smaller and barely furnished and used to house more than 11 children in like 50m2. In one farmhouse, the stalls were just below and one could smell the cow (just one, imagine when they had a few) in the rooms upstairs...

There were otherwise not many other animals to the children's disappointment. Apparently other animals could be exhibited on certain other occasions e.g. 20/05 is going to Horse Day, another day in June Sheep Day and so on. Only the pigs, the one cow and a few rabbits (you can feed them) are permanent exhibits.

Main Square, Schwäbisch Hall

St Michael's

Chocolate Tin Town

After the Open Air Museum, I decided to visit the nearby town of Schwäbisch Hall which is reputed to look like the villages you see on German chocolate tins. We were not deceived, it was indeed a very pretty little town.

In fact, I've grown to really appreciate Southern Germany over the last few months. It's green, clean, nicely-planned and often so pretty. The roads are logical and well-signed, there is often parking everywhere for a decent fee...

And as I was flying at an average of 170-180km/h on the Autobahn, I told myself that it was wonderful to be able to do that. Even as we entered into stretches of the highway where we could only drive at 80km/h or 120km/h. The contrast was what allowed one to better appreciate the no-limit parts of the highways. And especially knowing that this freedom is enjoyed within the confines of safety, mutual responsibility and good conduct on the road. Quite like the freedoms we should enjoy in our lives - freedoms to balanced with freedoms from.

We arrived at Stuttgart Airport (to pick up Hubby) before time. I felt quite rewarded when Hubby said - after I told him where we've been to etc - that WE could have gone there together :-).

Ganesha, Stuttgart

Butter Chicken

One of the things that I'll miss about Stuttgart is Ganesha, a surprisingly good Indian Restaurant in a city of generally lousy food. The restaurant has less than 20 tables and is usually full on Friday evenings, but lunch is often calm and the lunch menu has a variety of good curries all for less than 6,50 Euros.

Actually we usually eat there in the evening. The curries cost around 10-12 Euros each, a plain nan 2,05 Euros. Basmati rice is included in the price of the curries. But we've been eyeing the lunch menus for a while now, telling ourselves that they look like good value for money.

Lamb Madras

Finally at noon today, I drove to Ganesha (main problem has always been finding a legal place to park, but I was lucky today, whole street to myself) and took away 5 curries for a grand total of 29 Euros. What I appreciate about Ganesha is the fact that the curries usually taste different one from the other. Too often Indian restaurants in Europe tend to make curries that taste more or less the same no matter what they call it. But at Ganesha, a Sagwala Curry is different from a Korma is different from a Madras, Vindaloo, Ceylon curry etc.

Ceylon Fish Curry

Their Dal Soup is pretty good, by the way. And we like their Tandoori chicken and Tikkas. However, I'm not hot on their Pakoras, too heavy and not crispy enough.

Mutton Sagwala

Today I ordered a Lamb Madras (tomato, fresh ginger and coriander leaves-dominant), Butter Chicken (cream and tandoori spices), Mutton Sagwala (with spinach), Paruppu Curry (yellow lentils with curry leaves, cloves, dried chillies, coconut milk etc) and Ceylon-style Fish Curry (similar to the Paruppu).

Paruppu Curry

They were all delicious, I am (eating and typing at the same time) trying hard not to finish up everything myself, but leave some to my beloved hubby who, if all things go well, should be back home tonight. The babies ate their portions with gusto, dipping their papadums in the sauces.

Otherwise, I was back at the dentist's this morning. Went there to have my 3 fillings polished and ended up having one of the cavities re-filled as its filling was already falling out. Doesn't look good. She said that if this continues, I may need to have the tooth crowned. Aye.

Then I went for my German class and the teacher didn't turn up because he couldn't get a train on time thanks to the snow. Must say that we're officially in Spring since yesterday and we woke up to more than 10cm of snow this morning. Since I've already paid for my parking, I decided to take a look at the M for Madonna Collection at H&M.

I caught a first glimpse of it yesterday and nothing caught my fancy. Black, white and beige, classic lines, kind of tame. She has certainly aged, that Madonna. Or she's really taking the English Aristocracy thingy too seriously. But I've always liked her, could never explain why.

Anyway, I took a closer look today and discovered that the clothes also came in silk, wool, cashmire and linen - fabrics that I adore. Better still, I found trenchcoats and bomber jackets in lamb nappa leather - light and trendy! The prices were kind of discouraging at first (Hugo Boss on sale would cost just slightly more), but after trying out a few pieces, I discovered that the cut of most of the clothes was pretty good and that they flattered even a pork like me. I walked out of the shop with 2 leather jackets...Now must lie low for a while and not attract the Hubby's attention too much.

Ganesha
Lembergstrasse 19
70186 Stuttgart
0711-4687981

http://www.ganesharestaurant.de

Rice Man, Stuttgart Mitte

I am in general very disappointed with the Chinese restaurants that I've been to in Stuttgart. Most of them are owned by Chinese who came from regions in China definitely not known for their culinary finesse. But Rice Man in Stuttgart, if you head upstairs (skipping the horrible buffet at the entrance) and order à la carte, could be reasonably edible. They claim to serve authentic Cantonese cuisine. I beg to differ, but at least this effort to differentiate somehow bore fruit and I would recommend the restaurant to those who desperately seek to eat Chinese in town.

I have tried a number of dishes and find their Egg Noodle Soups (8,50 - 9,50 Euros) quite tasty, probably helped by the fact that their noodles are hand-made. Their Cantonese Roast Duck (11,50 Euros per serving) is also quite good and the portions are usually generous. I didn't enjoy their Mixed Meat and Vegetables Horfun (seafood frozen and not fresh), but the Beef Horfun was not too bad. The beef was tender and the sauce not too thick. Their Kangkong was OK, but very expensive (I think around 11 Euros) and their Tim Sum sucked.

I saw that they have exotic dishes like Pig's Blood and Intestines, but have yet to try any of them. The next time I'll try a few classics like Seafood and Tofu Pot, Mahpo Tofu and Fried Garlic Prawns...

On a good day, they'll serve you a bowl of Coconut Sago as you pay the bill. That is refreshing and which reminds me that I haven't been making this for sometime now and should consider doing so soon.

Schloss Neuschwanstein, Hohenschwangau (and Pig's Blood Soup with Egg Noodles)

We checked out of the AlpenHotel at 11am on Sunday and decided to visit the region before we return to Stuttgart. The Hotel receptionist recommended Mad King Ludwig II's Schloss Neuschwanstein (New Swan Stone Castle) at Hohenschwangau in Bavaria and we decided to follow her recommendation as we remember seeing a model of the castle at Legoland.

On the way there, we realised that we had already passed through the region last Summer on our way to Tuscany via Austria. And as we approached the castle, I began to suspect that I had already been there, probably 14 years ago on my 1st trip to Europe. As it was a mad tour of 9 countries in 36 days then, at the end of it I could no longer tell one castle from another.

Though I remembered the horse cart ride up the winding slope to reach the castle and the fact that the horses stank and spent half the journey shitting. So we decided to take the shuttle bus instead.

The whole area is beautiful, you are just surrounded by mountains and fields and so much nature. But from the time you buy your ticket (free for under 18 and 9 Euros for adults) and make your way up there, nearly an hour would have gone by.

Once up there, we went to look at the castle (Sleeping Beauty's Castle was a Copy Cat inspiration) from the Marienbrücke. I was a little stressed out as we were quite numerous to stand on the bridge and I was wondering if it was solid enough to withstand our collective weight. The fall down would have been quite a long one.

Baby Boy of course refused to walk and had to be carried ALL the time. But Hubby and I took turns to do it as the kids didn't ask to visit the castle (like they never asked to be born) and since we insisted, we should take full responsibility for it.

We were mightily impressed once again by German efficiency and organisation. Our tickets bore a Tour Number and a Visit Time and when we entered the castle grounds, we saw 3 lines dedicated each to one Tour Number and at exactly the time stated on the ticket (e.g. 13h45), the tour number (e.g. 457) would be announced on the screen. No hassle, no waiting, no stepping on toes and wow so smooth.

Only 14 rooms in the castle were completely decorated (Ludwig II died mysteriously before the works could be completed), but they were really beautiful rooms. Wood, marble, tapestries, mozaics...The castle on the whole didn't look like it was constructed more than 100 years ago, it is in such a marvelous state - kudos to the Germans for such excellent preservation. No photos allowed though inside - the German Government has the copyright to them.

Once back in Stuttgart, Hubby cooked us dinner (Bavette à l'échalotte) while I unpacked and then we all went to bed early as the kids and I were all still quite sick (longlasting cold with all of the works).

On Monday, he flew off to Italy and I took the opportunity to make myself Pig's Blood Soup with Fresh Egg Noodles, something that would have freaked him out if he were around. Both the blood and the noodles were imported from Paris (found them accidentally in a Vietnamese-run Asienladen here) and I just made a soup with Star Anis, Onions, Cinnamon, Cloves, Beef Stock, Garlic, Ginger, Dark Soy Sauce, lime juice, coriander leaves and fresh red chilli padi. Made 3 meals out of them, really satisfying.

As for the kids, I made them a Roast Chicken Rendang Curry with rice. And I cooked it the night before so that I would be able to remove the fat from the curry the next day. I have put on 2 kgs in Oberjoch (on top of the 10 that I've still to lose) and this is just so depressing.

Visit to Munich and the Dachau NAZI Concentration Camp

The NAZI period must be a heavy cross to bear for the Germans. Yet I think that they are doing really fine since unlike the Turks (vis-à-vis the Armenian Genocide) and the Japs (WWII in Asia), for example, they have chosen to face their past and as such earn the permission to move on.

Though this morning I was talking to a German mom and she told me that she didn't want to visit Dachau as the past is best kept where it is. I said, "Everybody coming here wants to visit Dachau..." and she retorted, "Not if you're German!"

It would be unthinkable not to visit Munich when we live just 2 hours away by car. And it would be unthinkable not to visit Dachau when we were in Munich. But well, we're not German :-).

Last December was a good time to visit Dachau. It was cold and bleak enough for us to visit the camp memorial and try to imagine how horrible winter must be for its former inmates; and the unnaturally warm winter we are having now made it easier for us to bear walking around in the cold.

Entry is free. Though you'll have to rent an audiophone (3 Euros for adults). Guided visits are available, but only on Saturdays and Sundays (if I'm not wrong). We started with the camp grounds (but it seemed a little antiseptic as almost all of it had been torn down), the cremation buildings, the sleeping quarters (picture above - newly reconstructed) and finally the museum.

The cremation buildings were a very bleak, impressive and necessary sight to behold, but I didn't feel brave enough to have pictures taken of the ovens or the gas chamber...The film being shown in the museum (in English at 15h30, for example) was well-done and really gave one a feel of the horrible atrocities being committed by the Nazis during WWII. One must make sure that one has enough time to visit the museum, there is much to read through and the camp closes at 17h.

Man's senseless cruelty is hard to bear. And millions of Jews, German and other soldiers, homosexuals, opposition politicians etc etc had died because of a power-mad regime gone crazy. But I personally still do not believe that the creation of the State of Israel was a really good idea. Or at least not in such a rush. We should learn from History, but not tamper with it. But that's just my opinion.

Come to think about it, millions of people from different parts of the world have been killed and continue to be killed for the most senseless of reasons. Why is it that nobody seems to be doing anything for the bulk of them?

As we left the camp, it was dark and the air felt heavy and much more oppressive. We all wondered aloud though how so many Germans could bear to live so near the camp memorial, there are houses everywhere - probably built above the thousands still buried underneath!

On a happier note, Munich, the City of BMW, is a really lovely city. Stately homes, wide avenues, many shops, restaurants etc. The people dress up really nicely too in general - quite a contrast to Stuttgart. There's a river near the Modern Art Museum and the English Gardens where people could actually surf the waves. Quite a sight in the heart of town.

We always stay at the Mercure Hotel in the Rudolf-Vogel-Bogen street, in the south of the city. It is children-friendly and is quite comfortable (4*). We've also established some sort of food routine when we were there : a meal at a fine Vietnamese restaurant Thang Long (www.thanglong-muenchen.de) in town (good Pho and Roast Duck with Kangkong), and some cake (excellent carrot cake) and sandwiches at a bakery near the castle. And we always try to bring some stale bread along as the kids like to feed the ducks, geese, swans and other birds in the lake in front of the castle.

My little Armand had been very brave (sigh), you see him going after the goose even when he had just moments ago had his finger caught in its beak because he stupidly held the bread in his hand for too long a time.

I must say that I wouldn't mind living in Munich.

On our way to Munich we stopped by in Ulm (famous for its cathedral) for lunch. Had typical German food in a warm and friendly taverna - meaning heavy, hearty and rustic, sometimes good and to be eaten only once in a while - Zwiebelroastbraten, Sauerkraut mit Bratwurst, Hirschgulasch...

Legoland

Legoland (Germany) is just an hour from my place, between Stuttgart and Munich. It costs almost the same for adults (30 Euros) and children (25 Euros) and is worth a visit. But be prepared to pay not just the entry fees but also spend on ice slushes, pop corn, sausages and more importantly - the wide range of Lego merchandise!

The queues were long though maybe not as long as in Disneyland and I think the rides were great when you have young children (my 2.5 and 4 year-olds could do most of them).

There were a few roller coasters and the Bionicle ride was rather innovative - you could programme the speed etc (so even my mom went on it). I love the Lego mini-world, these people are geniuses and artists.

We brought foie gras sandwiches to picnic in the park and bought some ice-cream, pop corn etc sur place. I must say that compared to most other parks, the prices for tit-bits etc were reasonable. The variety was quite decent too.

Only problem was that the opening hours were quite short (10h-19h, but all rides closed at 18h) and we couldn't finish the park in a day. Didn't even catch any shows, for example. Also, the parking was quite steep at 4 Euros per vehicle.

Those living in Germany, watch out for free entry coupons for children (though each child will have to be accompanied by a paying adult) on milk bottles (e.g. Landliebe), Lego boxes etc. Otherwise, if you buy online (http://www.legoland.de/), you'll get 10% discount though you'll need to wait a week for your tickets to reach you.