Les Jardins de Mandchourie

If you happen to chance upon certain Chinese restaurants during their employees' meal times, you may wonder how they could stomach the food being served. Menus in Western countries are often adapted to suit the Western palate, but I honestly wouldn't call canned preserved radish or other similar meat and vegetables a meal home-cooked. At the Jardins de Mandchourie, I was quite amazed to see on one occasion the staff tucking into Choucroute (incidentally originally a Northern Chinese dish adopted by the Huns after their failed conquest of China), braised meats and other interesting delights before service began. I had politely been invited to join the meal, but turned it down equally politely in favour of the main menu. It was an indication of the quality of the dishes to come and I had not been disappointed.

North-eastern Chinese Cuisine is rare in France. Most of its Chinese migrants come from Wenzhou, more known for its matchsticks and leather goods than its cuisine. I am Cantonese and am therefore biased, but then I'm also fond of chilli and spices and fiery N-E Chinese cuisine suits me as such more than fine occasionally.

On my last visit to this restaurant, I arrived to see a big table full of Indians from Hyderabad. Indeed, I know a Singapore Indian family living in the 12ème among its regular clients, craving occasionally for hot Chinese food. Nicely presented hot Chinese food prepared in hygenic conditions, if I may venture.

Scallop Soup

The menu is extensive and different from the usual Chinese restaurant's. Hubby arrived expecting to find his usually ubiquitous Hot and Sour Soup and couldn't find any. He started to interrogate the young owner (incidentally a well-educated Beijing boy, excellent French speaker, History Post-Graduate and Sciences Po Paris Graduate) and finally settled on a Scallop Soup. Very flavourful with generous slices of scallops in it as I was surprised to discover. I wasn't keen on it at first as it looked pretty starchy, but then it probably appeared as such as it didn't have the usual black vinegar and Soy Sauce to camouflage the corn starch.

We were then served a medley of different salads (in special small portions) of which my absolute favourite was the one with shredded 5-spiced Tofu. Hubby enjoyed the Beef Salad with sesame seeds sprinkled all over it. Nicely marinated and braised. We also had freshly-made Pot Stickers and a Spring Onion Pancake (which I found couldn't compare to a good Prata but I prefer it to a Pizza :-)).

Hand-Pulled Noodles with Minced Pork Sauce

I insisted on ordering their fresh hand-pulled noodles with minced meat (pork) sauce. The noodles are prepared only minutes before they are served. This is luxury in the West.

Next came 5 main courses : Chilli Scallops, Chef's Prawns, Leg of Lamb in Cumin, Sichuan Pork and Crunchy Cauliflower.

I would have preferred the dishes to be spicier, more fiery and maybe a little less oily, but then the reason why they were good was because the flavouring was subtle. No MSG, tonnes of Soy Sauce etc. It's really not like most Chinese restaurants. The Chef plays with fresh ingredients and spices and try to present them in harmony. And they serve you a bowl of chilli anyway if you want the dishes to be hotter. Hubby's favourite was the Scallops and mine the Sichuan Pork. I remember that they have a good Water-Cooked Beef but as it was meant for 2, I had to leave it for another time. As it is, we overate and could not bear to eat any dessert.

For tea I had Chysanthemum while Hubby had Jasmine. Such a long time since I last had the flowers. And a pleasure to have them in pretty tea pots with matching cups. The decoration is simple, warm orange and brown tones (the boss' wife is a trained Architect) and much lacking in chinoiseries (thank heavens). And on a good day, you can have your meal outside, the street being rather quiet, flanked by other nice restaurants, greenery and a few buildings.

In less than 3 years since its existence Les Jardins de Mandchourie has managed to find itself recommended in several guides e.g. Fooding, L'Internaute, Mmmm, Restos.fr, Cityvox, Petit Futé...Most of the clients are regulars and new ones often there through word of mouth. It is a pleasure to witness the restaurant perpetually improving and evolving, a testimony to the owners' love for a job well-done.

Les Jardins de Mandchourie

34 allée Vivaldi

75012 Paris

Tél. 01 43 45 58 88